I am back to pant making. Normally when the weather changes I do not wear dresses or skirts so a good pair of trousers are very important to me. I keep trying to find/make a TNT. Well, I think I have found it!! I am really excited about it. Tasia created the new modern Thurlow Trouser pattern. At first I wasn’t sure but as I looked at the photo and read the details it had some nice RTW details that I liked. I thought it was worth a try. The pattern description is:
Finally, a modern trouser pattern designed for curvy hips, fuller thighs and a narrow waist! The Thurlow Trousers sit below the waistline, with a slightly flared leg. Pockets in front are subtle slash pockets that won’t add bulk to the hips.
Pattern includes a cute pair of cuffed shorts as well as full-length pants. Wear the shorts cuffed or un-cuffed, with an optional grosgrain ribbon belt.
A great feature of this pattern is the centre back extension. Both trousers and shorts have extra-wide seam allowances at centre back so they’re easily altered for a custom fit at the waist. Try on your pants when they’re partially sewn, and fit them to your body!
Sizing is proportioned for a pear-shaped figure: smaller waist, larger hips and thighs
They are tailored towards a pear shape which I am not but I thought I’d still give it a try. I have since completed the muslin and am hopeful to have a pair of trousers soon to share. This post I wanted to share my welt pocket making. I have always been very nervous about making these type of pockets but they are on most nicely tailored pants. Originally I was just going to make the pants and leave the welts off, then I decided I needed to make a muslin and since I was going to try out the fit I may as well tackle the welt pocket. I then noticed the different technique for inserting the zipper. I almost always use the Sandra Betzina method for this and was really skeptical about changing/trying this technique but since I was doing a muslin I figured why not give it a try. Boy was I surprised, they both worked like a charm. The welt pocket took a few tries but I’m happy to report I am no longer afraid of this technique. Here is what I learned:
1st Try:
Welts were too big (double folded them) and pucking around the ends
2nd Try:
The size is better but I accidentally sewed them on the wrong side!! Still puckered.
At this point I had used both pant legs so I decided to practice on fabric scraps. I cut out a couple more welts, read a little more and decided to try again. I realized some of the puckering would have been eliminated with the use of interfacing. I dont usually use interfacing when I’m doing a muslin. I also marked the ends of the welt placement so it looked like a capital I sideways. This way I knew to sew within the two bars which was crucial for me to eliminate those puckers.
3rd Try:
Much better but I had to figure out the welt size!
Now I had a workable welt but I wasn’t sure where I should be sewing on the welt. Originally I sewed 5/8 of an inch from the cutting line of the welt (attempt 1 and 2) both were too big and then with attempt 3 I sewed the welt 5/8 of an inch from the fold which resulted int he welt being too small (shown above). I took another look at the directions which said sew the welt half way so I measured the with of the welt (1 inch) and stitched it @ 1/2 inch and it was perfect.
Attempt 4:
Got It!!
Then I moved forward with making the muslin. A few of the things I like about this pattern are:
The slant pockets:
Zipper:
It’s really very RTW.
So I dug through the stash and cut out a real pair from some fabric I had. It has a little stretch to it but nothing I’d be disappointed with if the techniques didn’t work out. I did the welt pocket first figuring if it didnt work out I wouldnt have wasted alot of time on the garment.
Here they are:
I’m really happy with them. I think they are pretty good for my 5th time around. I hope to complete the rest of the trousers this weekend and post a picture of me wearing them. I can see me making many of these in my future!!!
