PANT SEW ALONG V1040 Continued

1st Muslin Front

1st Muslin
1st Muslin
Well I have finished as much as I need to do on my first Muslin. I shortened my crotch length by 1 inch on the front and back, when I should have just shortened the front. As you can tell by the picture my tummy isnt the only thing that is large. LOL!! I dont know if you can tell but they dont completely cover my behind! So I will add the inch + some back in. I also multi sized my pattern too much. I took it in to a size 16 but probably the 18 will work. Normally I have to take in so much below my hip and I thought I should but overestimated. This is a slim fitting pair of pants and I took too much off. I am hoping this will repair my problems if I add about an 1/4 of an inch on the sides which will increase the pattern about 1/2 inch on each side?? I didnt bother with the waistband since they didnt cover all of me. I will put that on the next muslin. Also I only put in one pocket and mistakenly put it in @ 5/8 instead of following the directions with 3/8 inch seams. Any suggestions are very much appreciated. Also I had a hard time with my DH’s camera so the pictures may not be as clear. For some reason it multiplied each of the pictures on the screen X8 and I have cropped them until there is only one of me. I have to go to the fabric store today and get some more Muslin. Simplicity is on sale at Joanne’s by the way.

6 thoughts on “PANT SEW ALONG V1040 Continued

  1. Johanna Lu says:

    I second Cindy¨’s suggestions,about tweaking the crotch. I often get this problem with RTW jeans. Don’t sure what’s the best approach though, I feel a bit useless since I don’t own a good pant fitting book to help you. But trying to lengthen the crotch and perhaps scoop it out would be good start.

  2. DeDe says:

    Thanks. I actually have several books on fitting, but I get overly anxious about it. I looked into Sandra Betzina’s book “Fast Fit” and made an adjustment for a full bottom. I hope this works!!

  3. Antoinette says:

    Hi DD, for some reason I have not been getting updates for your blog. I saw your comment tonight on Cindy’s blog, where you mentioned you posted some pants photos, so I knew I was missing something. I updated the sew-along box on my blog to show that you posted on 3/9 and I will check my pants books to let you know what they say about the crotch bunching. I just glanced at that last night…

  4. Antoinette says:

    OK! I have consulted the vintage pants books. You mentioned that you are going to add back an inch to the back crotch length, and maybe re-grade to 18. I am sure the pants will change, but in case you have similar pulling on the front, here’s what I have found:

    Pants for Any Body (Palmer & Pletsch) calls this “smiles in the front” and the illustration is similar to what you’ve got in the top photo. The Stretch and Sew Pants Book (Ann Person) doesn’t have a cute name for this but the illustration is just like your photo. Luckily, both books prescribe a similar solution: More cow bell! Just kidding… random Saturday Night Live reference.

    P&P suggest letting out the pants front inseam from the crotch to 6-10″ down the leg. It doesn’t give specifics, so I assume fudging it is the proper method? The other book also says to alter only the front inseam by lowering and lengthening the front crotch so that the end measurement matches the back as is.

    If you want me to scan these pages and email them to you, let me know. 🙂

  5. DeDe says:

    Thanks Antoinette for looking at your reference books. I will let you know about the scanning. I have lengthened the crotch and thinking about what the books says it sounds like more of a inner thigh adjustment which may be necessary. I didnt add much to the outer seams but lengthened the crotch in the back. If that doesnt do it then I will try what you have suggested. Thanks Again!!!

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