Thurlow Trousers Part 1

I am back to pant making.  Normally when the weather changes I do not wear dresses or skirts so a good pair of trousers are very important to me.  I keep trying to find/make a TNT.  Well, I think I have found it!!  I am really excited about it.  Tasia created the new modern Thurlow Trouser pattern.  At first I wasn’t sure but as I looked at the photo and read the details it had some nice RTW details that I liked.  I thought it was worth a try.  The pattern description is:

Finally, a modern trouser pattern designed for curvy hips, fuller thighs and a narrow waist! The Thurlow Trousers sit below the waistline, with a slightly flared leg. Pockets in front are subtle slash pockets that won’t add bulk to the hips.

Pattern includes a cute pair of cuffed shorts as well as full-length pants. Wear the shorts cuffed or un-cuffed, with an optional grosgrain ribbon belt.

A great feature of this pattern is the centre back extension. Both trousers and shorts have extra-wide seam allowances at centre back so they’re easily altered for a custom fit at the waist. Try on your pants when they’re partially sewn, and fit them to your body!

Sizing is proportioned for a pear-shaped figure: smaller waist, larger hips and thighs

They are tailored towards a pear shape which I am not but I thought I’d still give it a try.  I have since completed the muslin and am hopeful to have a pair of trousers soon to share.  This post I wanted to share my welt pocket making.  I have always been very nervous about making these type of pockets but they are on most nicely tailored pants.  Originally I was just going to make the pants and leave the welts off, then I decided I needed to make a muslin and since I was going to try out the fit I may as well tackle the welt pocket.  I then noticed the different technique for inserting the zipper.  I almost always use the Sandra Betzina method for this and was really skeptical about changing/trying this technique but since I was doing a muslin I figured why not give it a try.  Boy was I surprised, they both worked like a charm.  The welt pocket took a few tries but I’m happy to report I am no longer afraid of this technique.  Here is what I learned:

1st Try:

Welts were too big (double folded them) and pucking around the ends

2nd Try:

The size is better but I accidentally sewed them on the wrong side!! Still puckered.

At this point I had used both pant legs so I decided to practice on fabric scraps.  I cut out a couple more welts, read a little more and decided to try again.  I realized some of the puckering would have been eliminated with the use of interfacing.  I dont usually use interfacing when I’m doing a muslin.  I also marked the ends of the welt placement so it looked like a capital I sideways.  This way I knew to sew within the two bars which was crucial for me to eliminate those puckers.

3rd Try:

Much better but I had to figure out the welt size!

Now I had a workable welt but I wasn’t sure where I should be sewing on the welt.  Originally I sewed 5/8 of an inch from the cutting line of the welt (attempt 1 and 2) both were too big and then with attempt 3 I sewed the welt 5/8 of an inch from the fold which resulted int he welt being too small (shown above).  I took another look at the directions which said sew the welt half way so I measured the with of the welt (1 inch) and stitched it @ 1/2 inch and it was perfect.

Attempt 4:

Got It!!

Then I moved forward with making the muslin.  A few of the things I like about this pattern are:

The slant pockets:

Zipper:

It’s really very RTW.

So I dug through the stash and cut out a real pair from some fabric I had.  It has a little stretch to it but nothing I’d be disappointed with if the techniques didn’t work out.  I did the welt pocket first figuring if it didnt work out I wouldnt have wasted alot of time on the garment.

Here they are:

I’m really happy with them.  I think they are pretty good for my 5th time around.  I hope to complete the rest of the trousers this weekend and post a picture of me wearing them.  I can see me making many of these in my future!!!

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One thought on “Thurlow Trousers Part 1

  1. Lynn says:

    I was thinking of ordering this pattern (and possibly others) because I heard so many good things about the company and sizing. I am hesitant because the draft is for pear shapes, of which I am not – just like you. I am more of a chocolate-loving hourglass. I look forward to seeing your finished pants. Congratulations on your welt pocket success.

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