I have been working on my first pair of Thurlow’s and am almost finished. I was very excited after my post the other day and had plans on sewing the zipper, side seams, and waistband but every evening after work I’d go downstairs wait for the iron to heat up and fall asleep! LOL!
Finally I had everything completed and only needed to add the waistband and hem. I had a terrible time with the waistband. The waistband was much shorter than the pants waistline. I assumed because the back of the waistband is cut on the bias it had to stretch to fit but it was really wonky and funny looking. I had to go out and get some things done so I thought I’ll take a break, regroup, and cut another waistband out and try it again. I went all day before I realized what I had done, which was sewed it upside down!! So I have to get out the seam ripper and remove the waistband and redo that portion then I can hem.
Meanwhile I wanted to document my steps on making the welt pocket. It’ll be a good reference for me when I make more of these.
First, I sewed the dart closed and interfaced the wrong side of the pant. This stabilized the area.
2. Mark the welt placement. The pattern only gives a straight line but from previous attempts I like have the legs there for stopping and sewing reference.
Before you line up your welts you need to mark your stitching lines. The welts have notches in them which are the dart legs, so I marked the center line according to the pattern which is 1/2 inch and then marked the legs. The legs are important (I learned from my numerous attempts) because you must sew inside them or you’ll have puckers.
3. Line up the welts with the Placement marking.
Then I lined up the two welts together so both when sewn will be the same length.
All pinned up to sew. I pin the legs so I won’t sew past these points!
I forgot to mention earlier I’m making the size 16 which I wasnt sure about but the pattern sizing is very generous. I actually wondered if it was closer to RTW sizes and not the normal sewing pattern sizes. With the big 4 patterns I usually make a size 18 so I was nervous. It turns out they were really a good fit straight out of the envelope I just took in a deeper seam straight down the outer leg. The only change I made was increasing the back crotch 1 inch. The length is also very generous. I am 5’8″ tall and everything I have ever sewn I have had to add 2 inches for my height. These are about a 1/4″ too long maybe– I have to finish this first pair and see. I like my pants long enough to wear my 3″ heels. My next pair I’m going to make the welt smaller but I have to figure out how to accomplish this without that large opening. I’m sure it’s just in the math and won’t be that difficult to do.
Meanwhile here is the progress:
Hopefully, I can have these finished tomorrow, get pictures taken, and post a review!!!